After our stay in Bulembu, we flew to Capetown in South Africa, and stayed there for a few days. One night, we stayed at a backpackers in the township of Khayelitsha, not far from Capetown. We drove into the township in a rented shuttle bus, and it was quite amazing. There were shanty houses as far as the eye could see, and some were not much more than a few corrugated pieces of metal placed together. I remember getting kind of anxious as we were driving in, and wondering if this was really the safest place for us to be staying. We drove up to a brightly painted two-story building, in the middle of the township, and were greeted by the owner, his wife, younger son, stray dogs, and the resident cook at the backpackers. We unloaded our suitcases (once again) and were amazed when shown to our rooms. They were fully furnished with bunkbeds, clean, with a full kitchen and games room upstairs.
After unloading, our host took us on a walking tour of the township.
Khayelitsha township, like many townships in South Africa, was artificially created during the times of apartheid. It was a way to keep black South Africans seperated from the whites. If I remember correctly, I think the townships also housed the first black migrants who were working in the mines. With time, women were allowed into the townships and families grew up there. These communities were historically economically disadvantaged, which you can still see today in the lack of infrastructure, development, and investment.
During our tour, our guide walked us down the street to show us what such a community looked like. He assured us the area was very safe, and explained that in some cases the townships are often more safe than the larger cities. This is because a sort of volunteer community-policing force is organized by locals, and everyone watches out for each other. Crime is surprisingly low, especially when neighbours are watching out for their neighbours. As we walked, I became aware at how obviously we stuck out, as white foreigners. I thought racism might be a problem for us in the township, but I found quite the opposite. Locals there were very interested in us, why we were there, what we were studying, and so on.
As we walked, we passed some schools in the township, and a care center for children which we visited. At one point during the walk, we heard some music off to the side of the street. As we walked closer, the people there invited us to come over for a bit. Looking at each other, a bit nervously, we thought: "why not"? There was singing, dancing, and people were passing around a local brewed beer in a large pail, as you can see in one of the photos below. It tasted a bit sweet, although I liked it.
Local brewed beer, in Khayelitsha township tour.
At first, we weren't quite sure what all the celebration was about. I remember asking one of the guys next to me, and he explained that someone had recently died. Instead of a funeral, focusing on death and the loss of a loved on, this was instead a celebration of life. For me, it was quite a different cultural perspective than from back home!
After the unplanned party, our guide took us to a 'shebeen', or local pub. Historically, shebeens arose in the townships because black South Africans were not allowed entrance into a bar or pub reserved for white South Africans. These places sold liquor without a license, and often featured various forms of local brew. Today, the shebeens are lively places filled with young people and the latest trance, techno, and house music. After the shebeen, our guide walked us home as the sun was setting.
I thoroughly enjoyed my stay in this township, because I was able to speak with local people, and understand how different people lived. I didn't feel threatened or unsafe at any point. The liveliness during the party and later in the shebeen was great! Although I enjoyed my time in the township, some of my other classmates did not feel the same. Some of the girls had trouble adjusting to the high level of noise, and felt like we were being watched during the tour because we were white. I think they may also have been feeling some culture shock, especially when we were confronted in the beginning with the poverty of the area. I have a feeling that my previous traveling experiences had at least somewhat prepared me for this.
Township tours are growing in popularity. Many tourists coming to the large cities such as Capetown and Johannesburg are looking to have an 'authentic experience', that goes further than just a staged cultural dance or stop at a museum.
The concept of a 'township tour' fit perfectly with our theories of community-based tourism. It is a local initiative, lead by local people, and benefiting local people. Some of the proceeds gained in township tours often go towards community projects, such as care centres for children, schools, and HIV/AIDS centres. If managed correctly, it can be a non-invasive way that tourists can help support local communities, and in return, gain a better understanding of townships themselves.
One of the
major barriers facing tour operators in townships is the perceived risk that tourists associate with townships. Especially lately in the news, there have been reports of riots and violence in many townships in South Africa. The reasons for these riots are complex; one reason being high rates of local unemployment. Some South Africans feel that black migrants from other African countries have driven up the rate of unemployment, and make it harder for some native South Africans to find a job. The attacks have been against these black migrants who live in South African townships, and not against tourists. However, safety concerns are a major barrier that tour operators face in the townships.
Labels: Khayelitsha Township
